Eyeliner Pigmentology basics


When it comes to choosing the “best black,” we often opt for the more consistent sized Gamma black that has the best qualities of both (or rather does not have the negative aspects of both).
— siiritabri.com

Our artists often get asked why the eyeliner they make heals well and looks great throughout the healing phases. Our Holistic PMU platforms enable us to approach and understand pigmentology professionally, as actual chemists and dermatologists explain. The most elementary "secret" is handling the particle size correctly based on skin type and the area.

Many know very well about the CI 77499 (Iron Oxide Black), which is inorganic ferric oxide based, and about the CI 77266 (Carbon Black), which is also inorganic, derived from partial combustion of carbon-rich materials. 

The problem often is that beginner trainers who wish to look sophisticated about the field without having any chemical or dermatological background deliver students some version of marketing material they have read, which puts them in the category of snake oil salesmen with good intentions. That leads them to make a case for one or the other, often leading to sub-optimal results.


We have discussed this with actual chemists and dermatologists, and when it comes to choosing the "best black," we often opt for the more consistent sized Gamma black that has the best qualities of both (or rather does not have the negative aspects of both):

  • Gamma black is not magnetic (like oxides) 

  • It can not be broken down so quickly (it has no atomic Christal structure)

  • It has a consistent particle size, suitable for many areas in eyeliner


In this picture, we have used Brown on a yellow-orange, and the results are just excellent. 

Learn from real professionals, not junior trainers, discovering the basics on your dime.

SharpBrows™: www.sharpbrows.com